Greg Noll, Makaha December 4th, 1969.
Just his board (primitive by today’s standard), trunks (no performance/stretch/rash-less fabrics), some junk wax, and BALLS.
Photo: Alby Falzon
Up to a point a person’s life is shaped by environment, heredity, and changes in the world about them. Then there comes a time when it lies within their grasp to shape the clay of their life into the sort of thing they wish it to be. Only the weak blame parents, their race, their times, lack of good fortune or the quirks of fate. Everyone has the power to say, “This I am today. That I shall be tomorrow.”
Winslow Homer (February 24, 1836 - September 29, 1910)
In dark, cold solitude of winter months… I thank the Lord for this opportunity for reflection.
Manifesto: The Mad Farmer Liberation Front, Wendell Berry (via ropeandsaw)
“A pilot of the U.S. Women’s Air Force Service at Avenger Field, Texas, in 1943” by Peter Stackpole (via LIFE)
Holy guacamole! Watercolor by Hayden Lane.
Paste your own writing into this application and it will edit it like Hemingway would have. Very cool, and extremely helpful.
Jon Krakauer, Into the Wild (via absea)
This is Jon Krakauer quoting Leo Tolstoy’s novella from 1859, Family Happiness. 410 notes with it cited to the wrong guy.